Recommended Oil for 1982 Porsche 911 SC Oil Change

[guidob2222]

RE: Recommended Oil for 1982 Porsche 911 SC Oil Change

Hi Guys - I am going to get back to changing my oil myself at home on my 1982 Porsche 911 SC.

My car is driven about 3,000 Miles / YR, never tracked, live in Southeastern Indiana around Cincinnati, OH and like to drive my car all year round.

I have 73,000 original miles on my car too.

I've been using Castrol GTX 20W50 oil (Synthetic)- is that okay?

Does anyone have any special recommendations on oil? I am confused with all of the info out here with regards to detergents needed for older cars like mine, etc and everyone's opinions. I'd like to stick to synthetic since I think that is all my 911 has known and want to avoid any leaky seals.

Thanks for your help!

[scwdp]

That's the most open for debate question in the Porsche community right now. Personally, I try to steer clear of the synthetics on an air cooled car. Lots of people swear its an old wives tale that it will blow the seals, but I've blown the seals in a few VW's right after switching to synthetic oil, so I don't take chances any more (big mess to clean up all that crap). In my street car, I use a Castrol GTX or a Castrol diesel blend. It's not a diesel, but there are addatives they can't put in a non diesel car because of the catalytic convertor. I don't run a cat, so its not a problem. As for my race cars (VW's) I use Brad Penn. One of these days I'm going to probably switch the SC over to Brad Penn too, but its on a long list of to-do items. Good luck with this one. I'd imagine everyone you talk to will offer a different answer.

--Bob

[RickV]

I agree with Bob 100%, You can go from synthetic to dino, but not the other way. I would continue using the oil that you have been using. Castrol is good oil, it all I ran in my BMW's and even after 200k on the clock the insides were clean enough to eat off of. (so long as you didn't mind oily food). I run Mobile 1 15w50 in my 82 but that is what she has been fed for years before I bought her a few years back.
The Brad Penn is awesome oil but you can't find it everywhere and I do travel with my car. I like being able to grab a quart of my flavor in any town.

[SCWDP911]

My 83 was Castrol GTx for years, and I switched to BP (Brad Penn). No issues at all. I buy a couple of cases at a time and always keep a couple of qts in the trunk...

[sbmackie]

Not to be argumentative as everyone has there own ideas, but: I run a mix of Mobil 1 V-Twin (for the ZDDP increase) and Mobil 1 20-50. Switched to it about two years ago; car ran Dino oil before that. I didn't notice any new oil leaks. The only time the car drips is when I run it hot on the track (like pushing 240 degrees); then I get some weaping from the left chain tensioner cover and the right valve cover. If "normal" temps are maintained (190 and below) it doesn't drip at all.

I will probably fix one or the other of the drips, as they are annoying. I will leave one to placate the Porsche Oil Leak gods.

My less the perfect knowledge .02

[scwdp]

I'm not one to challenge the wisdom of the ages, but to be perfectly honest: my experience with switching from dino oil to synth has been in beetles. They would have leaks suddenly sprout up for no apparent reason, and that's the only thing we could point it to. About three times watching a leak free car begin to mark its territory was enough to sway me from ever switching oils from dino to synth in an air cooled. Seems that once a bug starts to leak, its like a chain reaction until they are weeping black goo from every seal imagineable. So I guess I'm scarred in that respect.

--Bob

[RickV]

Well it isn't the fact the synthetics "blow" seals, it has to do with the fact that synthetics are "slipperier" than Dyno oils. If there is a chance that they can find a way out around a seal that has pressure, they will do it. I find that it is more the garage queens that have the issues. A daily driver with a good track record of not leaking on Dyno should be okay.
If you ever have your doubts about how synthetics will bond to everything, go hang out at a machine shop, you will hear a fella cuss when he goes to bore an engine block that has been running Mobile 1. You can actually hear the first pass or 2 doing nothing, then the blades will actually start cutting well. You have to cut that oil out of the cylinders before you can bore them. I didn't believe it until I went over to a buddies shop and saw "heard" if for myself. Made me a believer.